Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoy ... what an adventure.






Nong Khiaw is a little town about three hours drive north of Luang Prabang. I was fortunate enough to sit next to Christopher, a lovely chap from Austria, on the drive there. We managed to pass the time talking and he talked at length about mantak chia and lots of very interesting information regarding the human body, our organs and the links with emotions and energy.

We arrived in Nong Khiaw and lugged our packs along the streets, where chickens and children seemed to be the overwhelming presence. We found some nice little bungalows next to the Mekong river and then headed out to explore. Up we went past the local temple, where kids tried to get money out of us. Children always seem to approach me. I think I may look like an easy target. "Money kip", they said, with their hands outstretched. They didn't get my money this time.

Past the temple we could see a dirt road heading up the hill so we took to it. Round the hillside we went and came out at the top overlooking Nong Khiaw and it was quite a spectacular view. The Mekong river sweeping through the village and under the bridge with mountains and valleys as far as the eye could see. All of a sudden there was the most impressive thunder clap I have ever heard and it started to rain, so we made our way back down the hill.

That night we stood on the amazing bridge that connects one side of the village with the other and met another lone traveler by the name of Ben. We all just chatted on the bridge for a couple of hours taking in the beautiful scenery. It was an enjoyable way to pass the time.

The next day Ben and I jumped on a boat and headed further up the Mekong to a remote village called Muang Ngoy. Christopher headed back to Luang Prabang to start his long journey over the border to Vietnam. On the boat I met two lovely Australians, Kate and Mia, and we all found a cute little bungalow with a hammock overlooking the Mekong.

That afternoon I was taking a walk around the village. Which is super cute I might add. The children in this part of Laos are possibly the cutest children I have ever seen and they all say "Sabaidee!!" and have the cutest little smiles. I was walking along and a local man comes up and asks where I'm heading, where I'm from and all the rest. We decide to go and look at the cave which was used in the war as a hide out by the local people, when America was bombing the heck out of Laos. I thought we were heading on a little walk. Turns out it was more of a trek, and I was in jandles. We climb up this mountain and I keep thinking "hmmm I wonder how far...should I turn back?" but decide to trust Kaw so we get to this cave and it is absolutely amazing. Several hundred locals had hidden in there and he had a torch and showed me where they had slept and the fires they'd lit to cook. Outside the cave there were bullets and other gun paraphernalia. It was all very surreal. Then, for some strange reason, I thought it was a good idea to head further up the mountain to reach the summit where we could look out over the village. This was even MORE of a climb and I arrived at the summit, hot, sweaty, muddy, but somewhat victorious. The view was incredible. Kaw informed me that the population of Muang Ngoy was around 850. Very small and intimate.

Kaw tells me we can reach the bottom by going another way, down the other side of the mountain - where there is no track. We start down and more than once I was thinking 'what the hell am I doing?" As well as "I'm not so sure about this". But then I remembered how Jon once told me I was like Chucky from rugrats (which was true). So I thought "Harden up. It's an adventure!" I'm lucky that I found the whole thing amusing and was laughing. Otherwise, the trees stabbing me, the ripped pants, the unknown jungle around us, the slippery mountain slope, and the fact that I was trusting somewhat I had known for all of an hour may have resulted in a tantrum. But we reached the bottom safe and sound. Thank God.

Later that afternoon Kate, Mia and I were lucky enough to stumble across the local soccer match which Kaw had informed me of. It involved two teams of three and a volleyball net. It was kind of like volleyball, but using your feet and a woven bamboo ball. They were incredibly good! The children spectators were possibly my favourite part. Goosing about on a bench and riding their bikes. It was a nice afternoon.

The next day I headed back to Luang Prabang with Kate and Mia. We thought we were getting a bus from Nong Khiaw. Turns out we are in a tuk tuk. A tuk tuk that is meant to sit 15 and instead is seating 25! Yes. Not ideal. Now I know what it feels like to be cattle. Herded from one village to the next over extremely bumpy and windy roads. Two men were even standing at the back of the tuk tuk at one point, with two sitting behind the driver in the cab with their knees up around their heads.

All in all, the journey north was quite an adventure from start to finsih. It is nice to be back in civilisation.


1 comment:

  1. Chucky from rugrats ha ha ha
    That sounds bloody amazing and well done for keeping your humour intact. I love your descriptions of all the children you come across. Loving your blogs lily pop xx

    ReplyDelete