Saturday, January 19, 2013

WTEE, 24 goats, and an orphan

Yesterday was such a wonderful day in a magical city. I had heard various things about Kolkata, mostly bad, and so I guess my expectations were somewhat low. We left our hotel around nine and drove an hour into the the main city. Our bus driver had advised us of where he thought we should go and the first stop was a hindi temple in the midst of hustling and bustling streets. Words cannot describe the beauty of small markets and sreets in India. I was walking along and all my senses were overloaded by the sights, sounds and smells around me. Women sitting with their mats spread out before them selling various trinkets. There were men with beautiful red and gold marigolds - the colour of these just takes your breath away. On a number of occassions I had women coming up to me with children at their sides asking for money and even though it breaks my heart, I walk away. I can't save every person in the world, even if I try. Before we entered the temple I was determined to use a toilet and a man who was going to be our guide said 'come with me'. So Erin and I followed him back the way we'd come and he pointed us in the direction of a shop - what it was selling, I still don't know. As we walked through the shop Erin said 'this is going to be an experience' and I saw the door, which looked somewhat like the outside of a torture chamber. I don't normally share stuff like this on a blog but It was such an experience I can't hold back. I opened the door and the sight and smell that hit me was unbearable! The walls were brown and everything was wet and I contemplated peeing my pants, but I held my breath and escaped as soon as I could. As I walked out I just felt unbelievably grateful that I have clean water and a toilet that flushes at home and felt a tinge of sadness about the fact that most people in India use toilets like this every day. WTEE (Worst Toilet Experience Ever)

 We were told by our guide that it was the last day of a festival and so there were 4000 people visiting the temple. We were surrounded back to back by people lining up to get inside the temple. We were content to thread our way around the outside. We passed a goat and I had a sad feeling that the news wasn't good for black little goaty. Before 10am they sacrifice 24 goats and as I looked to my right I saw one of these little things hanging upside down getting chopped (it was a glimpse, but it was enough). We turned the corner and there was blood smeared on the ground and I got a sinking feeling in my gut, but I put my head down and powered on. In a small room to our left where people were aching to get in, the little goaties were having their heads chopped off. It hit me that while my natural reaction is to shy away from these situations. To people in India it is a normal part of their lives and to sacrifice a goat is a holy experience. At this stage, I am happy to be on my side of the fence. Our next stop was the holy water where men and women were bathing and submerging themselves. This was indeed a holy experience. FYI we did not submerge.

 After lunch on Park Street we visited Mother Theresa's tomb and were told by a woman there that she had been left on the doorstep of the orphanage at 1 day old and later looked after by one of the teachers at the orphanage. We were going to go into the orphanage but I admitted to my companions that I wasn't sure I could emotionally deal with 150 children looking up at me. I would just want to adopt them all, which you're allowed to do (the thought crossed my mind). Kolkata is a great city. There is so much to see, so much to do and I want to come back, maybe to adopt a child. We are off to Chennai today, more adventures to come. 

Side note: Driving an hour and a half out of Kolkata on a bus listening to Neil Young I keep having to pinch myself because everything feels so surreal. The way of living for people in the surrounding villages of Kolkata could not get further from how the majority of people live in Melbourne. What strikes me is that no matter where we live we are still able to create a sense of community and belonging. It is something I especially need and crave. I used to think intimacy was something you found in a romantic relationship, but I now I understand that one can experience an intimacy with all people and with all things.

4 comments:

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  2. Tess you evoke such a sense of place in your writing, makes me think I can see and feel and smell and hear the things you're describing. Disgusting toilets, slaughtered goats, colour, people, street sounds etc. I feel very lucky to be able to share in your experience through your writing.

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  3. Thanks mum! I am glad I can take you these places with me through my writing. What an experience it has been so far. Thanks for the comment x

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  4. I second what Ma said, I almost feel like I'm there with you and would dearly love to be! I'm so pleased you're having an amazing experience doll xx

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